City guide · Paris

China in Paris: Canteens, Dim Sum and New Tables

From a Belleville hole-in-the-wall where a steamed bun costs a euro to a Saint-Germain steam bar, Chinese food in Paris has never been easier to read.

By the Gatto editorial team5 min read11 places
China in Paris: Canteens, Dim Sum and New Tables

For a long time, eating Chinese in Paris meant choosing between the local takeaway and a big dining room in the 13th. That is no longer true. A generation of restaurants has taken back the narrative, often run by restaurateurs' children, and the city's menu has started to look like China's own: regions, techniques and wildly different price points.

Three addresses set the tone. Horiz, on rue Volta, in the heart of the oldest Chinatown in Paris, where the Lin brothers turned the family restaurant into a kitchen that works rice in every form, from starter to dessert. Steam Bar, on rue du Sabot, which restages the atmosphere of Hong Kong's steam bars in wood and leather, and is by far the most closely followed address here in the press. And Délice de Condorcet, a northern Chinese canteen where Xiao Zang colours his noodles with beetroot and spinach juice, picked up by both France Inter and Télérama.

The rest comes down to place and budget. In Belleville, Best Tofu lists steamed buns at one euro on a photocopied menu, and Ravioli nord est rolls Liaoning dumplings on a quiet street. For dim sum, Chez Ann makes them by hand to order and 21G Dumpling fills its xiao long bao near Aligre. For chilli, Trois Fois Plus de Piment remains the Sichuan reference at around ten euros a bowl. For a night out, Gros Bao on the canal and Red Katz in the Sentier play the spectacular room. And for a rare home-style kitchen, Shan Goût in the 12th is listed as a Table Gourmande by Gault&Millau.

Places in this guide

  1. L'Orient d'Or
    1Chinese restaurant

    L'Orient d'Or

    On rue de Trévise, away from the bustle of the Grands Boulevards, a Hunan-inspired kitchen that Gilles Pudlowski's guide has followed for years. The Mao pork appears in some twenty reviews, described as bold and well spiced without excess.

    « In this neighbourhood known for its kosher restaurants and shops, you eat here a cuisine inspired by Hunan (not to be confused with Yunnan…). »

    gillespudlowski.com
  2. Ravioli Nord-Est
    2Chinese restaurant

    Ravioli Nord-Est

    On rue Civiale, in a quiet Belleville street, a family restaurant devoted to the food of Liaoning, on China's north-eastern border: wheat rather than rice, fermented cabbage, and dumplings rolled on site, steamed or pan-fried.

    « Less known than Sichuan or Cantonese cooking, the Liaoning region hides no fewer surprises. This is a family restaurant where you eat simple, good food. »

    ceckr.wordpress.com
  3. Steam Bar
    3Dim sum restaurant

    Steam Bar

    On rue du Sabot, a discreet address that restages the atmosphere of Hong Kong's steam bars: wood and leather by Studio Boxwood, a long counter open onto the kitchen, steamer baskets set down in front of you. By some distance the most closely followed Chinese table on this list.

    « This discreet address on rue du Sabot in the 6th arrondissement takes you to Hong Kong, into the atmosphere of the steam bars, those dim sum temples you simply have to visit when you make the trip. »

    thuriesmagazine.fr
  4. Horiz
    4Chinese restaurant

    Horiz

    On rue Volta, in the oldest Chinatown in Paris, the Lin brothers turned the family restaurant into a kitchen that works rice in every form, flour, noodles, crumb, liquor, from starter to dessert. Reviews name the bings and the happiness noodles first.

    « In the heart of the oldest Chinatown in Paris, on rue Volta, the Lin brothers turned the family restaurant into a more contemporary address called Horiz. A kitchen that celebrates the food of south-east China by choosing to work rice in all its forms, from starter to dessert. »

    Sortir à Paris
  5. Delice de Condorcet
    5Chinese restaurant

    Delice de Condorcet

    On rue Condorcet, Xiao Zang, from northern China, makes his noodles and dumplings on site and colours them with carrot, beetroot or spinach juice. France Inter made it one of its addresses, Télérama calls the dough Technicolor, and a dozen dumplings still costs under nine euros.

    « This is a lovely hole-in-the-wall trying its hand at modern decor. The owner is called Xiao Zang, he comes from northern China, and the great specialty of the house is noodles and dumplings. »

    radiofrance.fr
  6. Gros Bao - Paris
    6Chinese restaurant

    Gros Bao - Paris

    On the banks of the Canal Saint-Martin, Céline Chung and Billy Pham rolled out 350 square metres of Hong Kong decor over two floors, after launching their first address on rue Saint-Denis. A huge review count and a high rating make this the mainstream gateway on this list.

    « After setting rue Saint-Denis alight, Céline Chung and Billy Pham shift up a gear and deliver an XXL version of their anti-hole-in-the-wall! »

    Time Out
  7. Red Katz
    7Chinese restaurant

    Red Katz

    In the Sentier, three young French-Chinese women opened a 300-square-metre room with a spectacular set, reviewed by Le Figaro. Guests describe a 1950s immersion carried right down to the basement toilets, and the rating has been rising since it opened.

    « In a 300-square-metre room in the Sentier (2nd), three young French-Chinese women open their restaurant with a spectacular set worthy of a Christmas Disney film. »

    lefigaro.fr
    16 mentionsRating rising
    See the full place file
  8. Trois Fois Plus de Piment
    8Chinese restaurant

    Trois Fois Plus de Piment

    The house that got Paris used to Sichuan heat, with noodles made on site and Dan Dan at just over ten euros, in a defatted pork broth lifted with chives, coriander, peanuts and garlic. The balance of price, intensity and review volume is hard to beat.

    « Signature dish? The Dan Dan noodles swimming in a defatted pork broth, dressed with chives, coriander, Chinese cabbage, peanuts and garlic (10.40 euros). »

    Time Out
  9. chez ann
    9Dim sum restaurant

    chez ann

    On rue de l'Échiquier, a blond-wood canteen where the dim sum are rolled by hand after you order, in a dough kneaded from organic flour and guaranteed MSG-free. The family previously ran a Sichuan noodle shop on rue Mouffetard, and it shows in the fillings.

    « In this prettily flowered canteen of blond wood and long benches, dim sum rule the roost. And not just any dim sum: these are fresh and flavourful, hand-made, kneaded from organic flour and guaranteed MSG-free. »

    Télérama
  10. Shan Goût
    10Chinese restaurant

    Shan Goût

    On rue Hector Malot, near the Gare de Lyon, a Chinese home-style kitchen that claims the principles of traditional medicine and refuses both freezer and microwave. Gault&Millau lists it as a Table Gourmande, which is rare for so confidential an address.

    « Shan Goût is the first Chinese home cuisine restaurant in Paris to combine the ideas of ancient Chinese medicine with traditional cooking skills from both China and the West. »

    obonparis.com
  11. 21G Dumpling
    11Dim sum restaurant

    21G Dumpling

    A step from the Aligre market, the open kitchen rolls its dim sum by hand every day: soup-filled xiao long bao, duck-confit siu mai, free-range chicken guo tie with house satay sauce. Reviews regularly compare them to those eaten in Asia, and the rating is rising.

    « At 21G Dumpling you are offered a journey between Hong Kong, Taiwan and Shanghai. The kitchen team makes a range of dim sum by hand every day, to authentically Chinese recipes, from carefully chosen ingredients. »

    Sortir à Paris
    8 mentionsRating rising
    See the full place file

Frequently asked questions

Where can I eat Chinese cheaply in Paris?
Best Tofu, on boulevard de la Villette, lists prices from another era: a plain steamed bun at 1 euro, a salted vegetable pancake at 1.50. Trois Fois Plus de Piment serves its Dan Dan noodles at around 10.40 euros, and Ravioli nord est on rue Civiale sits in the same bracket.
Where should I go for dim sum in Paris?
Three schools. Steam Bar, on rue du Sabot in the 6th, restages Hong Kong's steam bars. Chez Ann, on rue de l'Échiquier, makes them by hand after you order, with organic flour and no MSG. 21G Dumpling, near the Aligre market, bets on xiao long bao and duck-confit siu mai.
Where can I eat Sichuan or genuinely spicy food?
Trois Fois Plus de Piment is the reference house for Sichuan heat, with its own noodles and its Dan Dan. For a rounder chilli, L'Orient d'Or on rue de Trévise cooks in the Hunan style, and its Mao pork comes up in some twenty reviews.
Where is the oldest Chinatown in Paris?
Not the 13th, despite the common assumption, but around rue au Maire and rue Volta in the 3rd, where Horiz occupies the Lin brothers' former family restaurant. Belleville, straddling the 10th, 19th and 20th, is the other historic pole, home to Best Tofu and Ravioli nord est.
Is any Chinese table listed by a guide?
Shan Goût, on rue Hector Malot in the 12th, is listed as a Table Gourmande by Gault&Millau. The house claims a Chinese home-style kitchen with nothing frozen and no microwave, everything cooked to order.