City guide · Paris

Vietnam in Paris: pho, banh mi and the city's best canteens

From no-frills counters in the 13th arrondissement to a Bib Gourmand table in Sentier, Paris's Vietnamese food scene as told by the people who live it.

By the Gatto editorial team5 min read10 places
Vietnam in Paris: pho, banh mi and the city's best canteens

Paris is home to one of Europe's largest Vietnamese diasporas, settled since the 1970s around the Asian quarter of the 13th arrondissement, but also in Belleville, Batignolles and near the Montagne Sainte-Geneviève. That history shows up on the plate: Tonkinese pho simmered for hours, crisp banh mi, generous bo bun, Saigon-style dry soups. It's a culinary heritage the French food press took a while to take seriously, before finally paying real attention to it in recent years.

No list of this scene is complete without Mắm From Hanoï, the Sentier address run by a couple from Vietnam's northern capital, awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide for its authentic northern cooking. In the 13th arrondissement, the historic heart of the community, Ngoc Xuyen Saigon and Xinh Xinh keep canteen-style cooking close to family recipes, while the newly opened Bếp Việt reinvents a vegetarian menu rooted in Vietnamese Buddhist tradition. Elsewhere in the city, institutions like Le Drapeau de la Fidélité in the 15th, run by the same family since 1984, or Foyer Mon Vietnam near the Panthéon, show this cuisine's reach well beyond Paris's Chinatown.

This selection cross-references the Michelin Guide, Le Fooding, Télérama and Gault&Millau with what regulars actually order, to map a scene as diverse as the cuisine itself: from under-15-euro counters to more elaborate tables, never trading authenticity for folklore.

Places in this guide

  1. Mắm From Hanoï
    N°1Vietnamese restaurant

    Mắm From Hanoï

    The only table in this selection to hold a Bib Gourmand from the Michelin Guide, this Sentier address run by a couple from Hanoi builds its menu around authentic northern Vietnamese cooking, French-sourced ingredients and careful sourcing.

    « Tucked away in a corner of Sentier, this authentically Vietnamese table draws well-deserved crowds (book several days ahead). The couple, natives of Hanoi, cook up authentic northern Vietnamese cuisine. »

    — Le Guide Michelin
  2. Foyer Mon Vietnam
    N°2Vietnamese restaurant

    Foyer Mon Vietnam

    A community canteen near the Panthéon, founded in 1975 by Vietnamese engineering graduates, where part of every meal funds scholarships for Vietnamese students; coriander scents and paper lanterns guaranteed.

    « "A little corner of Vietnamese soil in the heart of Paris," the venue promises. It delivers. From the entrance, coriander scents fill the air, while a portrait of Ho Chi Minh presides over the canteen, its vintage tables and iridescent lanterns. »

    — Télérama
  3. Ngoc Xuyen Saigon
    N°3Vietnamese restaurant

    Ngoc Xuyen Saigon

    A pink-fronted hangout in the 13th where regulars play cards between courses, with a different soup every day of the week, from Tuesday's bamboo-chicken broth to the Saigon-style hu tieu kho recommended by Le Fooding.

    « In this pink-fronted haunt for regulars, people bicker over chopsticks while playing cards, or watch TV nose-deep in one of the legendary soups of the day. »

    — Le Fooding
  4. Xinh Xinh
    N°4Vietnamese restaurant

    Xinh Xinh

    A stone's throw from Pitié-Salpêtrière, away from the heart of Paris's Chinatown, traditional cooking run by Mrs Tran, known for steamed banh cuon and a properly made bo bun.

    « At Xinh Xinh you can try the famous banh cuon (rice-flour crêpes filled with pork and black mushrooms, steamed and served with bean sprouts and slices of gio, a Vietnamese ham). »

    — Time Out
  5. Do et Riz
    N°5Vietnamese restaurant

    Do et Riz

    A perpetually packed Vietnamese canteen near Marché d'Aligre, where the best seat is still the counter, four stools facing the woks, for a bo bun and spring rolls praised by the food press for over a decade.

    « Another good find steps from Marché d'Aligre! The best seat in this packed Vietnamese canteen? At the counter, of course (only four spots), with a view straight onto the woks, where caramel veal and the dish of the day simmer away. »

    — Télérama
  6. Le Drapeau de la Fidélité, pas de réservation et cash only
    N°6Vietnamese restaurant

    Le Drapeau de la Fidélité, pas de réservation et cash only

    A 15th-arrondissement institution run by the same family since 1984, part makeshift library, part counter serving some of the cheapest bo bun in the city, the embodiment of no-frills counter cooking.

    « Inside Le Drapeau de la Fidélité, the air carries a reassuring mix of sugar and frying. Few tables, small ones, and books, lots of them. »

    — Le Bonbon
  7. Bếp Việt
    N°7Vietnamese restaurant

    Bếp Việt

    A recent opening in the 13th praised by Télérama for a vegetarian menu rooted in Vietnamese Buddhist tradition, able to satisfy a vegetarian guest, a gluten-intolerant one and a lover of traditional flavours at the same table.

    « What table can pull off contenting a vegetarian friend, a gluten-intolerant guest and a fan of Vietnamese flavours all at once, the way this one does? »

    — Télérama
  8. Thu-Thu
    N°8Vietnamese restaurant

    Thu-Thu

    A tiny address near Place de Clichy known for its beef in 7 courses, a full spread of beef preparations that Time Out calls excellent, worth booking so you don't leave hungry.

    « Several times the name Thu Thu came up in conversation, always alongside the words "excellent," "bobun," "beef in seven courses." »

    — Time Out
  9. Pho Bida Viet Nam
    N°9Vietnamese restaurant

    Pho Bida Viet Nam

    About ten variations of pho, all around 13 euros, in a 13th-arrondissement dining room where booking ahead is strongly advised; the bo bun, offered in ten versions, holds its own too.

    « About ten different recipes, all for around 13 euros. Each time, the same base: rice noodles dunked in a wildly fragrant, flavour-packed broth. »

    — Time Out
  10. Sourire du Vietnam
    N°10Vietnamese restaurant

    Sourire du Vietnam

    The only address in this selection to break the 16th's usual culinary radar, featured in the Gault&Millau selection, away from tourist areas and praised by regulars for its generous pho portions.

    « Le Sourire du Vietnam serves a generous, flavourful pho, brought quickly by a warm and attentive team. »

    — Google

Frequently asked questions

Where can I eat Vietnamese food in Paris's 13th arrondissement?
The 13th holds the highest concentration of Vietnamese tables in the city, around Avenue d'Ivry and Avenue de Choisy. In this selection, Ngoc Xuyen Saigon, Xinh Xinh, Bếp Việt and Pho Bida Viet Nam are all based there, each with its own specialty: daily soups, banh cuon, vegetarian cooking or generous pho.
Which Vietnamese table in Paris holds an official distinction?
Mắm From Hanoï, in the 2nd arrondissement, is the only table in this selection awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide. Sourire du Vietnam, in the 16th, is featured in the Gault&Millau selection.
Are there vegetarian options at Parisian Vietnamese restaurants?
Yes, vegetarian cooking is an integral part of Vietnamese culinary tradition, tied to Buddhist practice. Bếp Việt, in the 13th, built its entire menu to work for vegetarian diners, gluten-intolerant guests and lovers of traditional flavours alike.
Which address in this selection is the oldest?
Le Drapeau de la Fidélité, in the 15th arrondissement, has stood at the same spot since 1984, run by the same family. It's also one of the most affordable addresses in the selection, with some of the cheapest bo bun in the city.
Do these Vietnamese restaurants require a reservation?
Some addresses like Mắm From Hanoï or Pho Bida Viet Nam book up days in advance and strongly recommend reserving, while neighbourhood canteens like Ngoc Xuyen Saigon or Xinh Xinh run more on a counter-service basis, no reservation needed.