Le Servan
Restaurant — La Roquette (Paris)
À propos
Le Servan, established in 2014 by sisters Katia and Tatiana Levha, is an author's bistro in the 11th arrondissement that embodies the new Parisian gastronomic generation. Tatiana Levha, trained at L'Arpège and L'Astrance, offers creative French cuisine with Asian accents, highlighting seasonal products with remarkable technique. The restaurant, located in a former neighborhood bar, retains its vintage charm with molded ceilings and wall frescoes while offering a contemporary atmosphere. Signature dishes like pork and langoustine ravioli or black pudding wontons showcase the chef's inventiveness. The wine list, curated by Katia, focuses on natural wines, perfectly complementing this unique culinary experience.
Mentions
Restaurant Le Servan Paris 11 �me | Restoaparis.com
* Guide Restaurant * Paris * Restaurant Fran�ais * 11 �me * Le Servan Au m�tro rue Saint-Maur , l'atmosph�re du Servan est celle d'un caf� rustique avec moulures au plafond, bar noir et or, lampes vintage et tables en bois. La maison est courue par la simple pr�sence de la chef Tatiana Levha (ex Arp�ge et Astrance) et sa soeur Katia. Elles vous accueille avec un superbe sourire sur leur visage eurasien (m�re philippine), leur nom slave venant lui de leur p�re Polonais. La carte fait aussi dans la plus grande simplicit� : deux entr�es, trois plats et quelques fromages et desserts. En entr�e on se r�gale avec le Tourteau avocat concombre ou les encornets poel�s au bouillon thai. Vous avez c�t� plat, agneau de lait aux anchois et petits poireaux ou une poitrine de cochon aux �chalottes et aubergines. Les desserts sont en petit nombre mais avoureux � souhait : tarte vanille fruits rouges ou paris-brest. La cuisine est recherch�e et d�licate. Entr�e environ 13€, plats de 25 � 38€, dessert � 8€. Cr�dit photo : supebes clich�s de plats par Aurore Nguyen (sur Facebook) D'AUTRES RESTAURANTS � PARIS QUI VONT VOUS PLAIRE ! LES NOUVEAUX RESTAURANTS 75CL Au cœur du 1er arrondissement, � deux pas du Louvre, 75CL s’affirme comme le nouveau repaire des amateurs de vins et d’assiettes pleines de caract�re. Pens� comme un bar � vins nouvelle g�n�ration, l’endroit m�le avec naturel expertise œnologique, ambiance d�contract�e et clin d’œil � la bistronomie hexagonale. L'article LA GATINAISE Le restaurant bistrot la Gatinaise est devenu le quartier g�n�ral du�centre commercial Mass�na�du Paris 13 �me. Dans sa salle rest� dans son jus vintage et sa terrasse lumineuse, on s'y r�gale d'une cuisine Fran�aise traditionnelle avec de bonnes grillades et le fameux couscous du chef. L'article TANGUERA Une petite maison Argentine et P�ruvienne dans le Paris 11 �me qui propose une cuisine g�n�reuse et qui fait voyager ! Aux commandes du restaurant : Lorena, une h�te pleine d'�nergie qui vous plongera dans l'ambiance sud am�ricaine. L'article LOJO Un petit joyau bistronomique nich� dans le 9�me, qui r�invente la gastronomie fran�aise dans une ambiance chaleureuse. La cuisine raffin�e du Chef sublime les produits de saison avec une pr�cision remarquable. L'article L'ATTILIO L’Attilio c'est une exp�rience gastronomique franco-italienne au cœur du 8 �me arrondissement de Paris, laissez-vous emporter par la cr�ativit� du Chef Attilio Marrazzo. Dans son arestaurant au cadre �l�gant et chaleureux, sa cuisine fusionne le raffinement de la gastronomie fran�aise avec la g�n�rosit� des saveurs italiennes. L'article YUKGA Yukga est un restaurant cor�en authentique au cœur de Paris pr�s de Bastille, sp�cialis� dans le barbecue cor�en. Yukga vous invite � d�couvrir l’art de la grillade � table dans une ambiance chaleureuse et conviviale. L'article
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Le Servan - €€ – Fulgurances
PARIS Adresse : 32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris France Téléphone : +33 (0)1 55 28 51 82 http://leservan.com Menu : Déjeuner : 28€ Soir : 50€ Servan, on l’a aimé tout de suite. Sa luminosité, ses tables bistrot en bois brut, sa fresque au plafond, ce défraîchi rafraîchi, ce magnifique bouquet de fleur posé sur le bar massif, et cet accueil attentionné et charmant. On s’est arrangé pour goûter à tout, en partageant les trois choix possibles au déjeuner. Chaque bouchée a eu son onomatopée. Et comme on est des mauvais élèves, eh bien, on a perdu nos notes. Mais on se souvient de façon intacte du sourire serein de Tatiana Levha en cuisine, un poil ouverte et de celui de sa soeur Katia, et complice qui nous a conseillé ce Muscadet tonique et vif. Vif, comme les condiments qui escortaient le cochon tout rosé et charnu, joyeux comme les herbes folles, partout, évanescent comme la bonite séchée, enrobant comme l’oeuf et ses gros morceaux de poitrine fumée, délicat comme le cabillaud presque translucide. Ca pétille sacrément chez Servan, les assiettes sont pleines de bienveillance, jusqu’au comté tranché en toutes fines lamelles posé sur des feuilles de laitue d’un vert tendre parfaitement assaisonnées. Et cette tarte à l’abricot à la pâte sablée bien friable, aux fruits juteux et acides, une note amandée, et surtout une belle louchée de crème fraîche. La cuisine de Tatiana Levha émeut d’évidence. Celle qu’on a connu toute discrète aux côtés de Pascal Barbot est déjà libre…
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Le Servan
Le Servan opened in 2014. It got a lot of press when it opened as it came on to the scene when Paris dining was bouncing back from some less-than-stellar press.* Younger chefs stepped up to the plate, opening smaller restaurants in outer arrondissements, and began changing the narrative, successfully rebooting France’s reputation. I ate there a few times. The first time I went, the food was exciting, a mix of French cooking techniques and ingredients, seasoned with spices and flavors that reflected cheffe Tatiana Levha’s multicultural heritage. I took some pictures, but when I asked the cheffe if I could take one of her for a write-up, she demurely declined I wrote about another meal I had there, here — along with a picture of Romain after he’d accompanied me to a government meeting that hadn’t gone well. Share David Lebovitz Newsletter I hadn’t been back to Le Servan for a long time, even though it’s a short walk from where we live. Since it opened, so many other good restaurants have opened in Paris, and it’s easy to forget ones that no longer get a lot of press. But when a friend who used to live in Paris suggested that we go, I said, “Why not?” We had a great meal, which was so good, I couldn’t wait to go back with Romain. (This time, under better circumstances.) I started with an excellent sparkling Divona cider from Johanna Cécillon. (Shown at the top of the post.) The neighboring table had ordered the Sardines served on toasted Ten Belles brioche. I wanted it too. The near-perfect square came to the table with the bread still warm, topped with a thin layer of gently spiced red pepper butter, with filets of raw, fresh sardines on top. I wanted another order. But we had blood sausage wontons coming, so I didn’t. Happily, Parisians are acclimating to spicier foods and authentic flavors on menus, and chefs are incorporating more ingredients that were formerly verboten. But there’s still a reluctance to dive into anything that will pique too much. Cheffe Levha was born in the Philippines (she’s also opened a restaurant called Double Dragon whose food leans much more into her Filipino roots), and while the spicy items are marked on the menu at Le Servan, the condiments that provide the spiciness are generally separated from the main dish on the plate, so one can decide whether to eat them or not. I ate them. The spicy condiments are robustly flavored, without overdoing it. And they were all very tasty. The chili chutney served with the pretty (but poorly photographed by me, due to the fading light, and I cut off the chutney in the bottom right corner🤷🏻♂️) winter squash tartlet with Mimolette cheese cream and marigold petals, was complimented well by it. Romain loves wild mushrooms so had the girolles with potatoes and savagnin (Jura wine) cream, topped with shaved truffles. For the main, I ordered the large ravioli which was filled with wild mushrooms, sauced with butter, and topped with crumbled toasted nuts along with dabs of mascarpone. The filling changes daily and is often vegetable-based. This one also had a runny yolk inside, which makes it an outstanding main course in the winter—a little carbs, a little fat, earthy mushrooms, and crisp nuts, because some are now saying we could dial up the protein in our diets. We’re mostly white wine drinkers these days, and almost every dinner party table in Paris seems to be set with bottles of heavy, tannic wines from Bordeaux, which I find overwhelms food (and can cause headaches) and prefer lighter red wines, when we go with reds, which provide a better balance between food and wine...at least to me. Wines from Beaujolais (south Burgundy) fit that bill and the AmalGamay, a blend of Gamay and Aligoté grapes, was recommended by the sommelier that evening, and she was spot on. Wine prices have risen in Paris at other mid-priced restaurants around town, but Le Servan has plenty of wines in the €32-€55/bottle category, and glasses remain reasonably priced at €6 to €9 per. Desserts are often an afterthought in smaller restaurants because of the expense of having a pastry chef. (Harrumpf!) The tarte Tatin (above) was truly one of the best I’ve had. It tasted freshly baked, still warm from the oven. Some purists say it shouldn’t be served with anything, but who can complain about a little dollop of crème cru (raw milk crème fraîche) on the side? Pas moi… The other dessert was equally sensational (maybe they should open a bakery next?)— a citrus tart in a crisp, buttery shell, which also tasted as if it had been baked to order and cooled just enough to be filled with a tangy lemon/lime filling, topped with fresh citrus suprêmes and pistachios. It was the perfect finish to the meal, and I’ve decided to become a regular again. Le Servan 32 rue Saint-Maur (11th) Tél: 01 55 28 51 82 Leave a comment *Food writer Alec Lobrano eloquently wrote about this in 2014 in his write-up of the restaurant.
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