L'Accolade
Restaurant — Quartier Saint Lambert (Paris)
À propos
L'Accolade, un bistrot moderne du 15ème arrondissement, propose une cuisine créative et généreuse signée Nicolas Tardivel, ancien joueur de rugby reconverti en chef. Dans un cadre chaleureux, il revisite la cuisine française avec des touches internationales audacieuses, comme un tataki de bœuf ou un cabillaud au bouillon thaï. Sa carte courte change selon les saisons, privilégiant des produits locaux et artisanaux. Le millefeuille vanille et caramel au beurre salé est devenu un incontournable. Une adresse intimiste où la cuisine traditionnelle rencontre l'innovation, avec un accueil convivial et une carte des vins soigneusement sélectionnée.
Mentions
L'Accolade -- Restaurant Review
208 rue de la Croix Nivert 75015 Paris Tel: 01 45 57 73 20 Closed Sundays Metro: 12 (Convention), Bus line 62 (Convention-Lecoubre) Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+) 3.5 - Star......................................................€€......................................................... 2 - Bell This restaurant is in our neighborhood. I recognized the area immediately and I thought, wait a minute, didn't this use to be the restaurant "Jadis"? and, it was. Jadis was extremely popular in its heyday in the late 2000's, but starting losing favor because of the inconsistent food and the inconsistent service. So, we went in to see what the name change, the new Chef and new menu was all about. We perused the menu. They had a standard menu which looks as if they serve it daily. And, they had a "menu of the day". Note the "menu du jour" was an excellent, excellent deal. Interestingly, none of us got the "Menu du jour" (menu of the day), we all went a la carte. ENTRÉES Tartare de crevettes au mascarpone, avocats et tomates confites. (Shrimp tartare with mascarpone, avocados and confit of tomatoes). This was probably my favorite entrée of the day. The combination of the shrimp (brininess) with the soft smooth naturally sweet taste of the mascarpone and avocados served with tomatoes was such a wonderful combination of complimenting flavors. Overall an excellent start. Petit pois, girolles et oeuf a 63º C. (Peas, mushrooms and egg 63º C). This was my next favorite entrée. Oftentimes "girolles" (mushrooms) can be extremely gritty from the sand. This is because there is a general belief that mushrooms should not be washed, but brushed, since flavor can be lost, and they absorb a lot of liquid. But these were very good, perfectly cooked and no sand and grit. And the peas were nice and firm, and the poached egg just added a wonderful delicious creaminess to the dish. Raviolis de betteraves au chèvre frais et raves colores. (Beet ravioli with goat cheese and colorful leafs). This came in as our 3rd favorite. It was a very simple dish, nothing out of the ordinary, but a good dish none-the-less. However, I personally found the beet flavored cheese component too sweet. PLATS Espadon, puree de carottes au gingembre, jus coco et curry. (Swordfish, carrot puree with ginger, coconut water and curry). The two who had this dish loved it. They thought the swordfish was cooked perfectly and the accompanying sweet puree'd carrots flavored with the ginger and coconut water added nice subtle flavors to enhance the dish. The only complaint the two had was that it may have been a little too salty. Poitrine de cochon, puree maison sauce miel et coriandre. (Pork belly, their special mash potatoes with honey and coriander sauce). I love pork belly, and this pork belly was delicious. Perfectly cooked with a crusty exterior and moist interior Note, there were bits of fat, but that's characteristic, but that's what pork belly is all about. The only complaint I have is a personal one, I do not like sweet anything. So, for me, although the mashed potatoes were delicious, I found them too sweet. But most would find the combination delicious. Minute d’agneau, legumes verts, jus d'agneau. (Minute lamb, green vegetables, lamb jus). The person ordering this dish was a bit disappointed. He likes really rare meat. Unfortunately, the way the meat was cut into morsels, even though it may have been cooked for a minute, the residual heat made it more done than he would've liked. For me, who neither likes rare nor raw meats, I thought the lamb was perfectly cooked. I think it was a very good plat. In hindsight, although I loved the pork, I should've switched with him. DESSERTS Sable breton, creme citron, fraises. (Breton butter crust, lemon cream, with strawberries). I liked this dessert. I had a taste of it. Who doesn't like butter crust; nice and buttery almost like a butter cookies. The lemon cream was more like a soft pastry cream flavored with lemon. I liked that it wasn't too tart. And, the freshness of the strawberries was just a nice overall refreshing dessert. Millefeuille vanille et caramel beurre salé. (Leafs of puff pastry with vanilla and caramel salted butter). This was our favorite dessert of the day. WOW, delicious all around. Millefeuille as we know it is more commonly used to make "Napoleons". The flaky crust alone I could've eaten. And, the vanilla cream with the caramel just put this over the top. We loved this dessert. As for the wines, we got one each of Brumont LA Gascogne D’Alain Brumont sauvignon blanc and a merlot. These are wines from the southwest of France. Merlot. It was a good wine that's actually in the same family as that of the cabernet sauvignon. So the wine is not a strong wine, but because of the less tannins it had a fruitier taste. Sauvignon. Characteristic of sauvignon blancs, it can range from a zesty lime to a flowery peach flavor. I would say it was somewhat in the middle. SUMMARY I'm glad Chef Guillaume Delage came in and bought out the old "Jadis Restaurant" which for whatever reason was going downhill quickly. He basically created a whole new menu. His philosophy is "cook today’s best products in yesterday’s style." I give him credit on his flavorings. He went outside the "French-box" to add flavors not normally associated with French cuisine such as curry or coconut water. The service was EXCELLENT. Our waiter actually spent the time to go over the menu line-by-line. Because the lamb did not come out as our friend specifically requested it, rare, my overall rating would've been higher. Would I go back, ABSOLUTELY, it's in walking distance of our apartment. For 4-entrées, 4-plats, 3-desserts, 2-bottles of wine, and 3-coffees 204.40€, or just over 51€ a person.
parismissives.blogspot.com
L'Accolade - Paris - Un restaurant du guide MICHELIN
208 rue de la Croix-Nivert, Paris, 75015, France €€ · Cuisine moderne L'ACCOLADE 208 rue de la Croix-Nivert, Paris, 75015, France €€ · Cuisine moderne Dans une ambiance franchement conviviale, le chef, un ancien prof de sport qui a bifurqué, propose une cuisine goûteuse, renouvelée chaque jour, dans laquelle on croise de nombreux produits du Sud-Ouest (poitrine de cochon, chou pointu et lentilles vertes), mais aussi quelques saveurs venues d’Asie (carpaccio de navet Tokyo, chair de crabe, coriandre et ail noir). Une adresse attachante. Lundi 12:00-14:00 19:00-22:00 Mardi 12:00-14:00 19:00-22:00 Mercredi 12:00-14:00 19:00-22:00 Jeudi 12:00-14:00 19:00-22:00 Vendredi 12:00-14:00 19:00-22:00 Samedi fermé Dimanche fermé
guide.michelin.com
Review of L'Accolade Restaurant | Paris Update
In an effort to review more restaurants in Paris neighborhoods far from my own, which I tend to neglect, I recently took advantage of the visit of some American visitors who were staying in the 15th arrondissement to seek out a good bistro in that staid residential area. I chose L’Accolade as a likely candidate. After passing through a rather dreary neighborhood and then the restaurant’s unpromising entrance, with its dirty awning and one chipped table with two chairs in front of the door (for smokers, I presume), I was welcomed with open arms to L’Accolade – only fitting, since the name means “hug.” In contrast to the exterior, the restaurant was clean and attractive inside. It soon filled up with locals looking for a good lunch, which came out promptly. While I waited for my friends from Portland, I had the good luck to catch the bearded chef on his way back to kitchen to check with him on the butter content of that day’s menu, since one of my friends has a strong aversion to it. He gave me the rundown on each dish, and it turned out that there was surprisingly little butter in them. Many people mistakenly think that French food is all about butter and cream, but that’s really true only for the cuisine of Normandy. Once they had arrived and we got down to eating, Mark started off with a dish of big ravioli – is this a new trend? I’ve been seeing a lot of these oversized ravioli in Paris restaurants – filled with shredded duck confit and served with glazed mushrooms, asparagus and two sauces, one of them, which he wasn’t fond of, a bacon mousse. After that hearty first course, he opted for another, lighter starter instead of a main: the restaurant’s version of a Caesar salad. I warned him that it would probably have little resemblance to what he considers a Caesar salad, and he agreed. It contained chicken, which the French always seem to add to the famously garlicky salad, I suppose to make it more filling. Ann, also a light eater, skipped the starter and ordered the octopus, which she found highly pleasing with its Thai-style wok vegetables and puréed carrots. I have rarely been known to skip a course, and this day was no exception. I started with the very fine Scottish gravlax, lavishly accompanied by caviar d’aubergines (baba ganoush), avocado tartar, dill ice cream, herring roe and Nourmoitier potatoes (some of France’s finest, from the eponymous island made famous by some of the films and artworks of Agnès Varda). Fresh and fabulous. It was followed by a luscious dish of fatty, melt-in-the mouth, slow-cooked (33 hours) pork, smothered in a piquillo-pepper sauce and served with roasted eggplant, Datterino tomatoes, gnocchi and fresh peas. For dessert, I had a slightly disappointing millefeuille of the deconstructed variety. While the salted-butter caramel sauce and especially the vanilla cream were luscious, I would have preferred a more classic version interlined with all “one thousand” layers of flaky pastry. The other dessert was an excellent chocolate ice cream with crunchy bits of praline and vanilla whipped cream. As you can see from the above descriptions, the chef at L’Accolade uses only quality ingredients and goes to a lot of trouble to create generous, satisfying dishes, while the friendly service staff contributes to that huggable atmosphere. See our Favorite Restaurants by Arrondissement page to find a good restaurant in the neighborhood where you want to eat. Favorite
parisupdate.com